More
    HomeEcosystem NewsOut of Style: Why North Africa’s Venture-Backed Fashion Startups Are Disappearing

    Out of Style: Why North Africa’s Venture-Backed Fashion Startups Are Disappearing

    Published on

    spot_img

    Between 2020 and 2022, North Africa’s startup scene was electric. Venture capital flowed freely, and a significant portion was funnelled into ambitious fashion-tech startups aiming to digitise the region’s wardrobes. From Cairo to Casablanca, marketplaces and direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands promised a new era of online retail.

    Today, the landscape is littered with the ghosts of these once-promising ventures. A wave of high-profile failures has swept the sector, leaving behind defunct websites, silent founders, and investors writing off multimillion-dollar bets. The startups that remain are the outliers, not the norm, their survival offering clues to a market far more complex than VCs initially believed.

    A Trail of Broken Promises

    The poster child for this boom-to-bust cycle is The Fashion Kingdom (TFK). In 2022, the Egyptian e-commerce marketplace announced a splashy $2.6m seed round led by prominent local VCs CVentures and A15. The plan was aggressive: use the capital to scale its technology, build a one-stop-shop for local brands, and expand.

    Founder and CEO Fadi Antaki was bullish at the time, noting the company had grown “by more than 3.3x in the last year.” Buoyed by the funding, TFK acquired D2C brand OPIO, aiming to create a regional fashion powerhouse.

    Fast forward to today, and both TFK and OPIO have vanished. Their websites are offline, and authoritative startup databases mark the companies as out of business. Antaki, whose public profiles now list his time at TFK in the past tense, did not respond to requests for comment.

    This is not an isolated incident. The story repeats itself across the region.

    • La Reina (Egypt): A pioneer in couture rental, La Reina raised $1m in 2018 from heavyweights Algebra Ventures and 500 Startups. The platform, founded by Ghada El-Tanawy and Amr Diab, aimed to be the “closet in the cloud” for millennials. By June 2022, it was dead. El-Tanawy is now a senior executive at Boston Consulting Group in Casablanca.
    • Brantu (Egypt): This mobile-first marketplace raised over $3.2m from investors including Sawari Ventures to connect local and global brands with Egyptian consumers. After boasting strong user growth, it quietly ceased operations last year. Co-founder Mohamed Rizk is in stealth with a new venture, while Fredrik Granström has joined a Stockholm-based AI startup.
    • Nessiam (Morocco): Proving the issue transcended Egypt, this inclusive lingerie startup secured $306,000 in 2022 from CDG Invest to corner the Moroccan market and expand across the MENA region. Three years after its launch, Nessiam is no more. Co-founder Mohammed Damiri now heads entrepreneurship at a leading Moroccan university.

    The Sobering Reality: Why Did They Fail?

    The rapid collapse of North Africa’s fashion startups points to a collision between venture-backed ambition and harsh market realities. While each company had its unique struggles, several common factors emerge:

    1. Unsustainable Unit Economics: The D2C model is notoriously difficult. Customer acquisition costs (CAC) are sky-high, driven by the need for heavy digital marketing. In a price-sensitive market, converting this spending into loyal customers with a high lifetime value (LTV) proved incredibly challenging. The promise of “speedy delivery and free returns” further squeezed already thin margins.
    2. Brutal Competition: North African startups weren’t just competing with each other. They faced a multi-front war. On one side were global fast-fashion behemoths like Shein and Turkish giant LC Waikiki, offering vast selections at rock-bottom prices. On the other, a deeply entrenched ecosystem of traditional brick-and-mortar retailers and informal social media sellers on platforms like Instagram and Facebook, who operate with significantly lower overheads.
    3. The Post-Pandemic Correction: The 2020–2021 e-commerce boom, accelerated by lockdowns, created an artificial growth bubble. As consumers returned to in-person shopping, online growth rates normalised, leaving many startups with bloated valuations and unrealistic targets.
    4. The End of Easy Money: The global venture capital downturn that began in late 2022 was the final nail in the coffin. Startups built on a cash-burn model, predicated on raising successive, larger rounds of funding, suddenly found the taps turned off. Without follow-on capital to weather the storm, their runways ended abruptly.
    5. Macroeconomic headwinds: Inflation, currency depreciation, and declining purchasing power across the region further weakened demand for discretionary fashion purchases.

    A Different Thread: The Survivors’ Playbook

    It’s not all doom and gloom. A handful of companies have navigated the carnage by adopting more resilient models, suggesting a path forward for fashion tech in the region.

    Tunisia’s Dabchy is a standout success. The circular fashion marketplace, which recently closed a seven-figure pre-Series A round led by Janngo Capital, has amassed 1.3 million users by focusing on the second-hand market. This niche benefits from a strong community-driven network effect and avoids the costly manufacturing and inventory challenges of traditional retail.

    In Egypt, two other models show promise. Gahez, a B2B marketplace, raised $3.2m to connect wholesalers with small retailers. By focusing on the business-to-business segment, it sidesteps the costly marketing and fickle tastes of B2C e-commerce, solving a core logistical problem for existing shops.

    Similarly, Dresscode, despite raising a modest $250,000, has remained operational by being capital-efficient and adaptable. The Cairo-based company connects local Egyptian manufacturers directly to consumers but has crucially hedged its bets by introducing a B2B arm and forging key partnerships, including with Amazon Egypt, to ensure distribution.

    The lesson from the survivors is clear: The future of North African fashion tech likely isn’t in building the next ASOS. Instead, it lies in identifying and dominating specific, sustainable niches — be it B2B logistics, circular fashion, or hyper-efficient local manufacturing — that solve real problems within the existing value chain, rather than trying to replace it entirely.

    Latest articles

    Altera Biosciences Bags $1.6M to Build ‘Off-the-Shelf’ Cells in Africa’s First Gene Therapy Play

    While the science is complex, the investment thesis has a unique hook. The startup argues that its location is a strategic asset.

    “Locals Only”: Tanzania’s New Decree Shuts Out Foreign Fintechs

    The timing is particularly ironic when considering a homegrown, yet globally-minded, success story like Nala.

    Inside the Deal: How a Cameroonian Web3 Founder Ended Up on the Board of a $45M State-Rescued ‘Zombie Bank’

    Anthemis-backed founder takes board seat at one of Cameroon's 15 existing commercial banks.

    CityTaps’ $6M Water-Tech Dream Runs Dry as Kenyan Arm Enters Liquidation

    The water-tech aimed to solve water access for Africa's urban poor with smart meters and mobile money. Its collapse is the latest in a wave of closures hitting Kenya's impact startup scene.

    More like this

    Altera Biosciences Bags $1.6M to Build ‘Off-the-Shelf’ Cells in Africa’s First Gene Therapy Play

    While the science is complex, the investment thesis has a unique hook. The startup argues that its location is a strategic asset.

    “Locals Only”: Tanzania’s New Decree Shuts Out Foreign Fintechs

    The timing is particularly ironic when considering a homegrown, yet globally-minded, success story like Nala.

    Inside the Deal: How a Cameroonian Web3 Founder Ended Up on the Board of a $45M State-Rescued ‘Zombie Bank’

    Anthemis-backed founder takes board seat at one of Cameroon's 15 existing commercial banks.